About
...but the devil...

  Dedicated to Tom Dowdy
  Design
  Contribute

Authors

  Wm. Christman

Sponsors

 

« Deezi Cafe: On Tilt? | Main | Park's Barbecue (LA) »

It's Only Lardo

boccalone2.JPG
(photo by wm. christman)

The second "piglet" pickup from Boccalone was this past Saturday. A few days earlier, Boccalone sent an email outlining what we'd be receiving and one item stood out: lardo.

A few chefs (Mario Batali for one, 'natch) and food writers familiar with charcuterie have been waxing poetic about the joys of lardo. However, can salted and cured pork fatback really be all that special?

The short answer is "yes", but with a caveat. Lardo is not something that needs to be consumed in massive quantities. It is pure fat, plain and simple. You don't eat it like you'd bar-bet your idiot cousin to eat a stick of butter. And you sure can't get it in your deli case at Safeway. (And shudder at the thought...the McLardo...wait, that already describes the fat content in many fast foods...)

Even for what it is, lardo is a delicacy: that is, to be eaten and savored in small amounts. Sliced thin, 3-4 slices of lardo is about the amount of fat you'd eat on 4-5 thin slices of prosciutto. So relax, unless you eat a 1/4 pound or more in one sitting, you're not going to do your arteries any more harm than what you might consider a "normal" amount of prosciutto....even rolled up with melon, of course.

Speaking of melon and fruits, lardo goes particularly well with tart, slightly acidic fruit. Nectarines were the Boccalone suggestion - we used just barely ripe apricots. The lardo is very slightly salty and plays nicely with the tart apricot, and adds richness to round out the fruit. Another option for lardo, is to place it on a piece of warmed baguette and let it soften. The creaminess and saltiness really pops forward in a semi-liquid state and is the cured analogue to fresh salted butter.

Lardo is not going to be the next food craze any more than braised duck's blood will be. It's a momentary creamy, fatty pleasure that is meant to be fleeting.

TrackBack

TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.blownstack.com/cgi-bin/mt/mt-tb.cgi/195

Post a comment

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)

Twitter Updates

     
follow us on Twitter


Restaurants

Powered by

Copyright

  Creative Commons License
  This weblog is licensed
  under a
  Creative Commons License.