(photo by wm. christman)
My father's German ancestry meant that my family was a half meat 'n potatoes one, and the comfort of that kind of food was cemented at an early age. Although it could have been their migration from the western chunk of Canada, the steaming piles of potatoes and pot roasts that landed on the table with regularity equaled comfort, which equaled being (and eating) American.
Other than coffee shops and roadside diners, cuisine American spent many years outside of the public (read: popular) restaurant eye but it has always been part of the landscape. In recent years, the cuisine has been front and center as chefs and restaurateurs look for new ways to explore those themes. For those fortunate few who uniquely carried this pioneer spirit, the resurgence in the popularity of American cuisine has paid dividends. And for those who push the boundaries of American fare into something as innovative as the country is diverse, have it good in spades. And Maverick has it good.
Wedged between ages-old businesses on a packed block on 17th Street in San Francisco, Maverick's laid back vibe of "down home" suggests a dusty and imperfect charm. Maverick's shoebox-sized, brown and orange interior further heightens a space that is at once inviting and cozy. It feels at times like a saloon (with the wine bar in front amplifying that) where hunkering down over a good meal and equally good bottle feels downright kick-ass. Everything is not perfectly in it's place, nor does it have to be.
Maverick executive chef and owner Scott Youkilis' "Amercian Eatery" presentation could have been made "fancy" but that would obscure the real point., The food here is straight ahead, in uncomplicated renditions, pairing classic and familiar ingredients in unique ways. Grilled meat with horseradish and potato, fried chicken with brown gravy, pork, beans and corn all make their appearance in forms that tug at your memories of family meals and campfires gone by. Meats are grilled/seared, potatoes and corn make their appearance in pancake/polenta forms, and vegetables (and fruits!) are roasted or stewed. If all that sounds simple, then you're right, and it's the simplicity that creates that instant comfort.
There are nods to the ethnic cuisines in the Bay Area as well but most of those appear in appetizer ("first plates") portions. pear salad (Asian), stuffed spicy peppers (Mexican chile relleños), a pickled salad (Middle Eastern torshi), and even antelope tartare (Amercian cowboy West) all make an appearance and round out the notion of "American" food. Sides are purely classic American: mac n' cheese, mashed sweet potatoes, grits and gravy. and roasted cauliflower. And all of it uncomplicated, unpretentious and satisfying. Maverick's wine selection also presents a similar simplicity. The classics come from France and Italy; the new classics from California. The wine list changes frequently and flights of a particular bent are offered. A recent visit had an "Italian reds" flight that mixed Italian and California-based Italian inspired wines.
If you're looking for a high-end, delicate meal, you won't get it here. It's really not Maverick's aim. If you are looking for simple, hearty, memory-spurring food, this is the place to go. And you'll probably want to either stay late to soak it up or come back again and again.
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Maverick, 3316 17th Street, San Francisco, CA 415.863.3061
