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Five Cookbooks

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(photo by wm. christman)

I was reading the lead article in the latest issue of the Art of Eating titled "Throwing The Rest Out" (by the magazine's editor/publisher, Edward Behr) about slimming down a cookbook shelf down to a set of essential tomes. The premise of the piece was that if one had to get rid of their cookbooks save for a small handful, what would one keep and why.

Being somewhat of a cookbook whore, I glanced at the well-overloaded four shelves of cabinetted cookbooks and shook my head. Every time I open the doors to that I can almost feel each shelf continuously groan under the weight of all those books. And that's not even counting the overflow shelves in the stove island cabinets and the 15-20 other books lying around the house.

So after finishing the article I started to construct my own list and found it quite difficult to sort down to just a few. There are whole genres of books that I use for particulars, sausages for example. And an equal number of random books that I just plain like to read, let alone use to cook with. These days, I find inspiration (starting points, if you will...) in reading cookbooks and food magazines rather than studying to follow a strict roster of ingredients and steps. But I thought I would be fun to try and narrow my bookshelf down to my five essential cookbooks that I could not live without.

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my five essentials (amazon urls included!)

1. Mastering The Art Of French Cooking (Volume 1) by Julia Child
Like the Edward Behr, my cookbook tastes bend heavily toward French cooking and if there's one book that I have learned the most from it's this one. Although it is somewhat rigid and austere at times when describing proper technique, it's that element that really hammers home the concepts that truly good food begins with mastery of technique. Back when I first bought this book, I fumbled at some of the techniques (for a beginner, I was quickly in the weeds usually through sheer ignorance), and scoffed at others (did I really have to beat egg whites that way?). Over time though, I discovered that following Julia's instructions as faithfully as possible, was usually the path to glory. There is so much in this book, that it's indispensable and if I were on a desert island, I would want this cookbook to be the one.

2. The Provence Cookbook by Patricia Wells
This is one of several cookbooks that I own by Patricia Wells. The food of the Provence region of France is my favorite because it straddles that line of sophisticated but simple. There is a year-round supply of vegetables and fruits from the mostly mild climes and, it being France after all, the meat first-rate. All together, the options are very, very wide and those who cook from this region are possibly some of the most fortunate to take advantage of all the region has to offer. To top it off, I find Wells' writing to be information packed writing that enhances the entire process of cooking. From her hints and tips on getting the best out of your local proprietors to simple, non-nonsense preparations, I turn to this book time-and-time again.

3. Culinary Artistry by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page
In some ways, this is literally the kitchen bible to me. It's not a cookbook per se, but a book of theory and techniques about composing flavors, dishes and menus and complimentary ingredient lists. I find the latter particularly useful because in alphabetical order, Dornenburg and Page, painstakingly list ingredients and cooking techniques and other ingredients that go well with them. There are a large handful of recipes that showcases what constitutes "composing" a meal. Think of this as your kitchen encyclopedia, dictionary, and thesaurus, all rolled into one.

4. Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook (Strategies, Recipes, and Techniques of Classic Bistro Cooking)
Although this is a relatively new book, Bourdain's biting and acerbic banter make this worth the read alone. Since he spent the better part of a decade cooking this type of fare, it is fully packed with classic bistro recipes. The introduction does spell it out clearly: "This is not a cookbook. Not really. It will not teach you how to cook." Bistro cooking is yet another French cooking love of mine and this is about as gritty and real as it gets. Forget the fancy platings, and visions of taking over the culinary world. If you've got a kitchen work-ethic, then you've got tons of meals you can get to.

5. The New Doubleday Cookbook by Jean Anderson and Elaine Hanna
For me, this is about as old-school as it gets. This is the very first cookbook I ever bought and it has been through drownings, fires and one nasty earthquake. The cover is battered as are the pages that have been stained with use over and over again. It is an all-around cookbook with sections on just about every type of food imaginable. There are even things in here that put some more cutting-edge cookbooks to shame...squirrel fricassee, anyone? This, along with Culinary Artistry, is encyclopedic in nature. I use it as a jumping-off point for many dishes and still refer to it when roasting meats. And my base recipe for my yearly baklava run comes directly from page 792 of this important book.

So that's five. There are several beyond this set that I'd fight to keep: Ruhlman's Charcuterie book, a handful of James McNair books, the Fannie Farmer Baking book, and others. What are your five can't-live-without cookbooks? Use the comments URL below and let us know.


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Comments

I can't even contemplate cutting my collection to only five cookbooks. I might as well slit my wrists. I can't even stick to five cuisines, although Italian always seems to rise to the top.

I think "Culinary Artistry" and the "les Halles Cookbook" are great. I use the "Dean and DeLuca Cookbook" quite often - it covers a wide range of foods and styles of cooking. Many of the recipes have been inspirations for experiments of my own. Another book that sees frequent use around here is Penelope Casas' "Tapas - The Little Dishes of Spain." So many great recipes and ideas in that one.

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